By now most of us are aware of the narrative surrounding the fashion industry: in the UK annually 350,000 tonnes of wearable clothes end up in landfill; 60% of fabric fibres are derived from fossil fuels; globally garment workers earn 2-5x less than a living wage. The fashion industry as a whole is socially, environmentally and economically unsustainable: US$90 million is missed out on annually due to lost productivity linked to gender inequality.
The fashion industry is complicit in racism and classism, perpetuating pre-existing inequalities. We saw only a few weeks ago hundreds of brands sharing their black square in ‘solidarity’ with the Black Lives Matter movement, but failing to address their white-washed boards and the fact 80% of garment workers are women of colour earning less than a living wage. When non-essential shops began to open the media was flooded with images of people queuing outside Primark, Sports Direct, TK Maxx and the like, however, they failed to report on the crowded Bicester Village, a high-end designer outlet, or the vast turnover in luxury boutiques.
The intrinsic link between the fashion industry and societal inequalities extends beyond the manufacturing process and PR. As a society we value how people present themselves, often subconsciously judging a person’s wealth/background by their outfit. Preconceived biases that plague our society means the working class and ethnic minorities often face greater pressure to present themselves in a way that separates them from labels. These groups are also some of the poorest. Cheaper clothes are usually of poorer quality, so break sooner and will need replacing.
People who lined up outside Primark shouldn’t be the enemies, the billionaires who continue to perpetuate the idea we need more clothes to be worthy should. These billionaires continue to profit off people’s insecurities and play into pre-existing inequalities, whilst holding all the money needed to pay their workers a fair wage and prevent environmental degradation by their products.
However, having said billionaires are to blame, they are unlikely to change without an incentive from consumers. Simple supply and demand! This is where privilege comes in. If you are actively choosing to buy a new wardrobe every month, every season or even every year because you ‘feel like it’ or are ‘bored’ and not out of necessity, take a moment. Where do these clothes come from? Who is making them and how are they treated? Where are your old clothes ending up? Charity shops can’t store all your clothes, frequently sending low-quality garments to the African continent, destroying local markets and undermining local artisans.
Whilst, I am not saying never treat yourself to anything new ever again. I am saying consider how your spending has a greater impact. Instead of buying four bikinis this summer from a brand that is complicit in systems that uphold racism and poverty, buy one bikini from a brand that considers both people and planet. Stop buying new clothes because you’re bored and start appreciating what you already own, showing respect to the people who risked their lives to make it.
For more info consider following: @ajabarber @mikaelaloach @emsladedmonson @venetialamanna @aditimayer
To see how your favourite brands treat planet, people and animals head over to GoodOnYou.eco - they also suggest ethical alternatives to high street brands
Campaigns to support include: Clean Clothes Campaign, Remake, Labour Behind the Label and Pull Up for Change
Isabel Leach